Beyond Breakfast: Da Levee | Columbus, OH

For a white kid who grew up in the Midwest, it’s surprising how much spicy cajun and creole cuisine feels like comfort food to me. We never made it growing up, I’ve never been to New Orleans, but as long as I can remember I’ve loved this style of food. I love the heavy load of spices. I love how it’s filling. And I’ve had some great examples, from Creole Kitchen in Columbus to the amazing Bourbon N Toulouse in Lexington, KY. But just as worthy is Columbus’ Da Levee.

Da Levee has a small storefront in Short North, just north of Buttles Avenue, and in the winter months the warm food and atmosphere make me want to hole up there for hours. It’s probably good that we don’t live closer to Da Levee, because if we did I’d find myself justifying multiple visits per day.

The specials rotate regularly, so it’s best to keep an eye on their Facebook page. The owner Justin Boehme is good about posting an image of the day’s menu, so it’s easy to find out what they’re slinging. The menu shifts between varieties of etouffee, chowder, red beans & rice, maque choux, gumbo, jambalaya, po boys, and burritos. I’ve never had a bad meal at Da Levee, but my personal favorite is the chili cheese etouffee with crawfish. Here’s a sampling of some of the other dishes we’ve enjoyed:

Spinach and mushroom etouffee. A good etouffee is probably my favorite dish in the repertoire of creole/cajun food.

Red beans and rice with sausage.

Spinach and mushroom etouffee again. All entrees are served over rice, with a side of toasted bread that’s heavily buttered and seasoned. Perfect for scooping up bites.

White chilikin’, aka white chicken chili.

Two bonuses about ordering: you can pick small plates ($5), large plates ($7), or half-and-half plates ($8). This lets you adjust to your appetite, and it allows you to easy sample and share with a table full of friends. The second bonus is that many of these dishes are vegetarian and can be made vegan, so it’s an easy go-to with group of varying tastes and needs. Okay, I lied. There are three bonuses, the third of which is that this type of food blends flavors and spices so well. Most dishes are some version of a slow-cooked stew, so the meat, veggies, beans, and heavy dose of spices have time to combine. In single-digit temperatures like today’s, a plate of spicy hot meat and vegetables piled on rice sounds like a bit of home to me.

Aaaaaaaand… now that I’ve finished this post, I’m hungry and want to go there for lunch today.

Plan your own visit:
Da Levee
765-C N. High St. (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43215
dalevee.com
Also on Facebook and Twitter @DaLeveeCajun

You can sometimes catch Justin at the Da Levee Express food cart, or during late night hours out the backdoor of the restaurant at Backdoor Burritos, serving Fridays and Saturdays until 3 a.m.

Sunrise Cafe | Yellow Springs, OH

Sunrise Cafe (Facebook)
359 Xenia Ave. (map it!)
Yellow Springs, OH 45387
(937) 767-7211
Open Mon, Wed-Fri, 7:30a-2p; Sat & Sun, 8a-2p (open 5-9 for dinner most days)
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/Y
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Monday, August 13, 2012 at 11:00 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: Readers have long been encouraging me to visit the Sunrise Cafe in Yellow Springs. The small Ohio town, less than an hour from Columbus, makes for a fantastic day trip, what with the shops, trails, parks, restaurants, and the always-enjoyable Young’s Jersey Dairy. And you can’t have a good day trip without a good breakfast. Fortunately, my readers haven’t steered me wrong.

ATMOSPHERE: You can find Sunrise on Xenia Avenue, the main drag leading through the center of town. It’s a fairly tight space, from the entryway full of 90-degree turns, to the smattering a tables in the front of the restaurant, and the thin corridor down the back.

The booths themselves are snug but not uncomfortable. For our family – two adults and two kids – we fit pretty tight together. But the high backs of the wooden booths create a nice little sense of privacy.

FOOD: Readers have given Sunrise’s coffee rave reviews, and I have to agree. It’s a special organic roast (fitting with the general mission of the restaurant), although I was a little surprised that it wasn’t from a local roaster. Still, it’s delicious, comes automatically with cold cream, and is served in tiny mugs. There’s something I really like about small coffee mugs. They cool  off faster, and if you’re a cream-and-sugar type like me, it’s easier to maintain that balance with refills. I know, I know, I’m completely over-thinking this…

I was in a bit-of-everything mood, so I ordered the Morning Fill-Up, a platter of eggs, meat, potatoes, toast, and two pancakes. All of it was very, very good: eggs and toast were spot-on, potatoes have peppers and onions mixed in. A reader suggested asking for the bison patties, which I did. They were dense and lean, but flavorful.

Mrs. Breakfast With Nick tried a couple half-orders. First were the huevos rancheros, a colorful and well-mixed rendition of the Mexican classic. Many versions of this don’t properly blend the ingredients, meaning the salsa is overpowering or the tortilla is dry. But this comes together nicely. And the egg was cooked just right.

These are the pancakes with my order. Sunrise’s cakes are thin and crispy. Most places go for thick and fluffy, but there was something I really liked about these. You get the pancake experience without stuffing yourself on carbs. The mugs of melted butter and real maple syrup help, too.

The Mrs. also tried a half order of the Sunrise Gravy and Biscuits. Like the huevos, they were very flavorful and came together nicely. The buttermilk wheat biscuit was dense, and different than we expected, but I liked it with the white, chunky gravy.

Our son ordered silver dollar pancakes from the kid’s menu. They’re just like the regular pancakes, but smaller, and again less filling.

A view of our table. Obviously, the baby bottle isn’t on the menu.

SERVICE: Our server was helpful, but he did seem a little rushed the whole time. The restaurant was full, with a line out front, and we could only see two servers total. They’re clearly a little pressed to keep up with everyone.

OVERALL: Sunrise exemplifies the overall feel of Yellow Springs: a little hippy, a little touristy, and dedicated to small town life. Using plenty of local and organic ingredients, the restaurant forges a delicious breakfast with a very good variety. Vegan and vegetarian breakfasters: Sunrise has you in mind, too, from sandwiches to omelets to sides. Gluten free breads are also available on request. All in all, this is an excellent spot to start a day of exploring Yellow Springs.

OTHER LINKS:

-> Yellow Springs’ Chamber of Commerce site: www.yellowspringsohio.org

The Angry Baker | Columbus, OH

The Angry Baker (Facebook / @TheAngryBaker)
891 Oak St. (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43205
(614) 947-0976
Open Sun & Mon, 8a-5p; Tues-Sat, 8a-7p
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Friday, April 6, 2012 at 10:30 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: If you haven’t been to Olde Towne East lately, or if you think it’s nothing but a neighborhood of run-down old houses, you need to re-evaluate. Case in point: The Angry Baker and the booming corner of Oak and 18th Streets. Alongside AB, Yellow Brick Pizza is serving up pizza and beer, and The Tavern recently opened next door to the bakery.

ATMOSPHERE: The bakery itself has a bright, colorful little cafe in one corner, with a polished wooden floor and big brick walls.  There are a handful of tables for enjoying coffee and a pastry, or a breakfast or lunch sandwich. There’s even a long counter with stools, overlooking the kitchen itself.

FOOD: Angry Baker offers both the retail bakery experience, as well as the quaint cafe vibe. Their display cases are chock full of baked goods, and three separate chalkboards communicate the bakery items, breakfast, and lunch offerings. I love chalkboard menus. Denounce them as hipster if you like, but an erasable menu means that you can refresh your menu easily to accommodate seasonal changes and ingredient availability.

As Olde Towne East continues to develop, I’m sure Angry Baker has already become one of those neighborhood stops where residents walk over for coffee and a pastry as they begin their day. Just read through this list of goods and try not to get hungry. There’s everything from kolaches and cookies to bear claws, muffins, and scones.

Or you could spend your time at the bakery cases, staring…

…and staring…

…and staring.

And then finding more things to stare at.

For breakfast that morning, we chose one of the breakfast sandwiches, specifically the French toast sandwich. The breakfast menu focuses mainly on the sandwiches, but they also offer baked eggs, vegan pancakes, and biscuits with a mushroom gravy. Points to AB for expanding the vegan breakfast offerings in Columbus. But back to that sandwich… this isn’t the type of sandwich that you eat with two hands. This is a knife-and-fork one. It’s essentially their version of the monte cristo: local ham and cheese between two slices of French toast made with their brioche, then drowned in real maple syrup. As expected, it cuts easily with the side of a fork, and is a delightful mix of the salty and the sweet. If you’re a French toast fan, you need to sample this one.

SERVICE: With the small, intimate space, it’s hard not to get to know the crew there. You can chat with them about their baked goods, and they’ll answer any questions you have. The prepared foods are made on a small flattop right in front of the counter. This is owner Vicki Hink cooking up my French toast!

OVERALL: Angry Baker is well worth multiple visits, to sample the rotating offerings of baked goods and the seasonal changes to the cafe menu. Like I said, it’s great for a coffee-and-a-snack stop or a quiet sit-down breakfast.

OTHER LINKS:

Alfalfa | Lexington, KY

Alfalfa (Facebook / @AlfalfaDining)
141 E. Main St. (map it!)
Lexington, KY 40507
(859) 253-0014
Open Mon-Fri, 11a-2p, Sat & Sun 9a-2p; also Wed-Sat, 5:30-9p (bfast specials served w/lunch; brunch served Sat & Sun)
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Sunday, March 11, 2012 at 9:30 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: Having been to Alfalfa once before for dinner, we’ve been excited to return for breakfast on a recent trip to Lexington, KY. Alfalfa is my kind of place: urban setting, colorful decor mixed with old building elements like exposed brick, eclectic menu catering to a variety of tastes. And it’s right in the heart of beautiful downtown Lexington.

ATMOSPHERE: We met with some friends on a fairly busy Sunday morning, but they had no trouble fitting in our group of nine. The space is in a rough U-shape, curved around a thin wall that clearly houses a stairway going up to the next floor. The entryway is thin, but there are a few tables grouped toward the front. The center of the space has a long bar and serving area, and then the bulk of the seating curves around down the right side. Near the host stand, a set of doors opens into the lobby of the Downtown Arts Center, with a theatre and galleries. How handy to have the two connected!

There’s lots of bright, natural light from the front windows. Plenty of seating. Artwork on the brick walls. Very comfortable.

FOOD: The food is a big hit, too. Again, something for everyone. First, the breakfast burrito with a side of cheesy grits (you’re in Kentucky – get the grits, of course!)

The specialty of the house is the buttermilk blueberry buckwheat pancakes. Served with real maple syrup. Above is a smaller portion that comes as a “side” with a larger meal.

This is the typical plate-sized portion of the blueberry buckwheat pancake. It’s one of the better pancakes I’ve had in recent memory. The buckwheat keeps it from being too sweet, which offsets the tart blueberries and the maple syrup.

And the eggs benedict arnold: an eggs benedict on wheat toast with city ham (as opposed to country ham, I’m guessing?) and avocado slices. Topped with tomatoes. Overall, a very tasty benedict. Not the best I’ve had, but it makes you realize that avocados deserve to be in nearly every dish, especially benedicts.

SERVICE: Our one dedicated server did a fine job. Even on a busy morning, with a fairly big group, he handled all the details of drinks and orders very well, and all with a smile. I’ve been to some places similar to Alfalfa where customers can get the impression that the servers are a little “snooty” or “hipster-ish,” but that was certainly not the case here.

OVERALL: Alfalfa is a very worthy stop on a Lexington breakfast tour. In fact, I’d make it one of my top one or two stops, along with Doodle’s. The atmosphere and restaurant is colorful and well-connected to the surrounding neighborhood. The menu offers a wide enough variety to please everyone, including some creative vegan options. And it’s easy to get behind their focus on using local eggs and produce. (Columbus readers: if you’re in Lexington and nostalgic for Northstar Cafe, hit up Alfalfa.)

OTHER LINKS:

Jury Room | Columbus, OH

Jury Room (Facebook / @jury_room)
22 E. Mound St. (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43215
(614) 220-0964
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Open daily 11a-2a (brunch served Sat & Sun 11a-4p)
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Sunday, December 4, 2011 at 12:45 pm

IMPRESSIONS: Admittedly, it’s difficult for me to write an unbiased review of any of the Columbus Food League restaurants (the organization formerly known as the Betty’s Family of Restaurants). I remember the day when only Betty’s existed, and how soon Surly Girl Saloon joined the ranks, and then Tip Top Kitchen & Cocktails downtown. Then we all followed on Twitter the long journey of Dirty Frank’s Hot Dogs opening, and finally the Jury Room around the corner. (Psst, and there’s more to come!)

ATMOSPHERE: We hit up Jury Room early on a Sunday afternoon, and the place was relatively quiet (hint: a little too quiet). We arrived with a group of eight and the server easily pulled a couple tables together. The restaurant is a large single room, with a long wooden bar and an assortment of tables with big wooden chairs. There’s a big chandelier hanging from the ceiling and a fireplace in the corner. The furniture and decor is selected to fit the history of the restaurant, which dates back to the early 1830s. It’s a cozy pub-like setting, and sidling up to the bar or sitting at a table near the fire means you’re joining a long tradition of folks taking a break from the hustle and bustle, even if you’re not on break from a trial at the nearby Franklin County Courthouse.

FOOD: As it was brunch-time and technically p.m., our party started with a couple drinks. First was their Bloody Mary, which you would expect to find on any brunch menu. Jury Room’s version was spicier than I prefer, but it wasn’t so loaded with other accoutrement that it was awkward to drink. So if you want a Bloody Mary that’s flavorful but easily drinkable, this one will work for you.

They also have a nice selection of mimosas, made with orange, cranberry, pineapple, peach, or bitters. One of our brunchers chose the Peach Mimosa. It’s light, refreshing, and delicious.

The food menu has a great mix of things, including some unique items such as brisket and eggs, a bunch of scrambles, sandwiches, burgers, and French toast. Pictured above is the B.E.L.T.: bacon, eggs, arugula, and tomato. It’s a nice big sandwich, very tasty, and comes with really well seasoned and crispy potatoes.

Any trip to the Jury Room must include a plate of their truffle fries. These are thick-cut, crispy potatoes dowsed in some truffle oil and topped with big flakes of shaved parmesan cheese. Pair them with the aioli sauce, and I could eat them for days on end.

I was in a burger mood, and I love a brunch burger, so I picked up Jury Room’s Breakfast Burger. Excellent burger: cooked just right, including the egg, with crispy onion, arugula, and tomato on it. Includes bacon, provolone, and their spicy aioli, plus a side of  the potatoes. Great burger, whether you eat it for brunch or not.

One of our party ordered the Roasted Ohio Chicken off the regular menu. This is a beautiful dish featuring Amish chicken, potatoes, peas, onions, and a cream sauce. I didn’t have a bite, but I was told it’s delicious. If it tastes half as good as it looks, it must be a great dish. This is one thing that I really enjoyed about the Jury Room brunch (and about food at Columbus Food League restaurants in general) is that the menu is fun and casual while still featuring fairly sophisticated food at a good price. It’s costs more than your average diner breakfast, but the quality ingredients and preparation are worth it. Keep in mind, too, that CFL menus always include solid vegetarian and vegan options.

SERVICE: We were well cared-for by the handful of servers at the restaurant, although there weren’t many customers there. But CFL employees are generally very knowledgeable about their food and drink, and our server certainly had fun with us. He was able to accommodate everything for our group, which was decently big and included a three-year-old.

OVERALL: Jury Room holds the distinction of being Columbus’ oldest continually operating restaurant, since 1831. Liz Lessner and the Columbus Food League crew took over about a year ago, when the restaurant went up for sale, and Columbus’ dining scene has been all the better for it. They’ve given this historic restaurant new life, while still retaining some of the traditions of the location. It’s one more step in building a better downtown food scene. The brunch (at least on Sundays) is a quiet and comfortable affair. Great food in a very cozy atmosphere. I look forward to returning for brunch. Oh, heck, or for any meal there.

OTHER LINKS:

Whole World Restaurant | Columbus, OH

Whole World Restaurant (Facebook / @WWRestaurant)
3269 N. High St. (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43202
(614) 268-5751
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Sunday, September 11, 2011 at 11:15 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: Whole World Restaurant has a long history – over thirty years – as one of Columbus’ premiere vegetarian stops. They’ve been serving up the non-meaty goods since 1978 in Clintonville, and in that time have garnered a very loyal following. You can find the restaurant along North High Street; the storefront is small, but just look for the small greenish awning. There’s plenty of street parking around it.

ATMOSPHERE: I met Akron food blogger extraordinaire Tom Noe of Exploring Food My Way for Sunday brunch. The cafe was just over half full when we visited in the late morning, and a steady stream of customers kept the tables filled. Whole World’s decor uses a lot of browns and creams, except for a big colorful mural above the counter.

FOOD: On a specific quest for biscuits and gravy, I order their version, the vegetarian gravy and biscuits. Instead of sausage, they make a heavy roux laden with spices and herbs like garlic, salt, and pepper. Overall, the dish was fairly well done. The biscuits were big and very dense, which I generally don’t mind. I like for my biscuits to hold together. The gravy had too much garlic in it for my taste. I’m actually surprised they didn’t try using a vegetarian sausage as a base for the gravy; it’s on the menu elsewhere. I think that might make a better substitution.

Tom ordered their Southwestern Quiche, one of the specials for the day. It came with a huge pile of crisp potatoes. The dish is colorful, to be sure, although Tom seemed to have the same reaction I had to my biscuits and gravy. Good, but not a real stand-out.

SERVICE: Whole World has you order at the counter, then find your table. The over-the-counter interactions were all very pleasant, and the person there could explain dishes or make recommendations. The food came out fairly quickly, too.

OVERALL: Although we weren’t wowed by our food, it was overall a good experience. It’s a cozy little restaurant, and its history as one of Columbus’ oldest vegetarian spots speaks to its quality and the dedication of its customers. Browsing through their Sunday brunch menu, I’m already planning a return visit: there are pancakes, French toast, and vegetable hash to try!

OTHER LINKS:

Northstar Cafe (Easton) | Columbus, OH

Northstar Cafe
4015 Townsfair Way (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43219
(614) 532-5444
Open 9am-10pm daily
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Friday, April 8, 2011 at 9:00 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: The three Northstar Cafes have become institutions in Columbus. Any online search of “breakfast in Columbus” brings up at least one Northstar location, and the steady crowds can attest to their continued popularity. I’ve been to the other two locations multiple times (and reviewed first e, then Short North). While my reviews have gotten less gushy as time goes on (I can’t believe myself when I re-read the Beechwold one), I still think Northstar serves up a solid breakfast that I’ll always like.

The Easton location is their newest one, and can be found in the southeast section of the shopping center. There’s a good-sized parking lot right next to it, as well as lots of metered parking around the Easton streets. Each Northstar Cafe is designed and laid out differently, and each one fits very well with its locale. This one is a great fit for Easton overall.

ATMOSPHERE: This was my first time in the Easton location, and I have to say… it’s one of the most photogenic breakfast spots I’ve seen. Very well focused lighting, lots of natural wood accents, big counter space, bright light from abundant windows.

This location is also the biggest. The whole main floor probably has more seating than the Short North location, and then there’s a balcony circling half the restaurant.

We visited right when they opened at 9 am (which is comparatively late for a breakfast spot), and while the balcony remained empty, the main floor filled up quickly.

FOOD: The menu at Easton is pretty much the same as the other two locations (plus one tasty addition). First off, we had drinks. There are a few choices of coffee, including decaf and light-medium-or-dark roasts. I opt for their Johnny Mellow. We also nabbed a fresh-squeezed orange juice. Always a hit.

I don’t eat at Northstar Cafe as often as I used to, but whenever I have breakfast there, I have to get the Big Burrito, plus bacon (goes without saying). I’m just a big fan of the combination of bacon, sweet potatoes, black beans, veggies, and cheese.

I call this Still Life With Coffee And Burrito.

This item I haven’t seen at any of the other locations: Prosciutto and Poached Eggs. The base is a rosemary focaccia bread, topped with prosciutto (a very popular meat these days) and nicely poached eggs. Comes with a side of greens. Overall, a very nice dish: seasoned just right, between a dash of parmesan, the salty prosciutto, and herbed bread. Well worth a try.

SERVICE: Like all of their cafes, the Easton location employs the order-at-the-counter system. Order there, you’re given a number, and your food’s brought out to you. Gratuity is included in the food price. Generally, the employees there are very nice. Some are more smiley than others, but no surliness.

OVERALL: Again, I don’t get to the Northstar Cafes as often as I used to. Part of it is the cost: you’ll be paying a few bucks more than your average diner breakfast. But it’s also because I have so many more places to explore. Still, the Easton cafe is beautiful, and they serve all the breakfast favorites. Like the other cafes, they have a nice patio as well, plus this one has a wood fireplace! So there’s some consistency between the cafes, but enough interesting variations between them, too. But however you feel about the other Northstar locations, you’ll probably feel the same about this one.

OTHER LINKS:

Market 65 | Columbus, OH

Market 65 (Facebook / @marketsixtyfive)
65 E. State. St. (map it!)
Columbus, OH 43215
(614) 564-6565
Open Mon-Fri, 7:30 am – 8 pm (bfast served until 10:30 am)
Accepts cash & credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N
Kid-friendly? Y

Date of Visit: Thursday, March 10, 2011 at 10:00 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: Market 65 is a much-needed new addition to the downtown dining scene. They took the spot formerly inhabited by the San Francisco Pizza Oven, and have replaced that forgettable chain with a bright, fresh restaurant that features a lot of great Ohio goods.

ATMOSPHERE: The space flows pretty easily; once you step through the front door, you’re right at the top of the line that follows the counters. I visited on a Thursday mid-morning and the place was quiet, although lunch time can get busier.

There’s a good-sized seating section extending back into the space. The color palette is full of greens and browns; you feel like you’re walking in a forest.

FOOD: The real star of Market 65 is their salad bar, what with the choosing and the mixing and the chopping, but they do feature a good breakfast menu, too. And obviously, that’s why I’m here.

The fun of eating there is watching your food be assembled as you head down the line. They have a huge variety of fresh ingredients to choose from…

…including meats…

…vegetables…

…and cheeses. The biggest dish on their breakfast menu – the wrap – lets you choose two of the vegetables and a cheese (you can add bacon or sausage, too). That’s a pretty wide selection.

Other breakfast items include oatmeal, fresh fruit, and pastries.

Coffee service provided by Stauf’s, with a special Market 65 blend. Very nice.

Baked goods come from Sassafras Bakery, Sue’s Kitchen, and Cupcake Yum Yum.

My son and I split a wrap (which you can also order as a scramble) with some white cheddar and black beans. It’s a hefty wrap, and was plenty for the both of us.

The ingredients are simple, but the flavors were all there. A great option if you need a quick breakfast downtown. The bonus is that these ingredients are sourced locally, so you know you’re getting good Ohio eggs, cheese, and the like.

SERVICE: I’ll be honest: I had a great service experience, although I got to chat with owners Anthony and Patrick. One of their staffers very kindly played with my son Will while we spoke. If Anthony, Patrick, and their staff are anything to go by, they can take care of a long line of customers smoothly.

OVERALL: Market 65 is a simple concept, but one that’s well connected to the local food community and provides a much-needed option for downtown dining. They’re open early and stay open late, which is encouraging for that area. And now that the weather is getting warmer, imagine yourself out here on the patio…

OTHER LINKS:
-> my piece for (614) Magazine on Market 65
-> interview with the owners on ColumbusUnderground

Voodoo Doughnut | Portland, OR

Voodoo Doughnut (Facebook / @VoodooDoughnut)
22 SW Third Ave. (map it!)
Portland, OR 27204
(503) 241-4704
Open 24 hours a day
Accepts cash only
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N

Date of Visit: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 at 6:00 pm

IMPRESSIONS: Voodoo Doughnuts is a Portland institution, and you’d better not mess with it. With two locations in town (and a third down in Eugene), Voodoo is synonymous with Portland’s downtown and nightlife. Their donuts, some of which trend toward the ridiculous, have landed the shop on the Food Network and other national stages. Taking the advice of our Portland friends and other trusted sources like reader and Twitter-friend John, we visited the original location downtown. I’m told the new locations are nice, but nothing compares to the “character” of the original. Such is true for many things in life.

ATMOSPHERE: Voodoo is to donut places what Yesterdog is to hot dog joints. It’s old, beaten up, a little dirty (in more way than one), they only take cash, the servers are kinda gruff, and there’s nothing you can do about any of it. For those who don’t know Yesterdog, it’s a hot dog place in my hometown of Grand Rapids. It’s cheap, beloved of native Grand Rapidians, the wooden booths are carved with graffiti, and the dirty tattooed guys behind the counter will yell at you if you order incorrectly. That was our experience at Voodoo.

The space is super small and cramped. Maybe ten customers can fit inside at once. Everything’s pink and a little dark. The only lighting is a giant chandelier hanging overhead.

They’re aggressively cash only, but provide an ATM for your convenience, whether that means getting some cash or carving a tribute to your one true love.

There’s a huge menu, which you can also peruse online. Donuts range from simple cake and custard varieties (at about .95/donut) to wacky specialties that cost $5-6.

Standing at the counter lets you see shelves and shelves of donuts.

There’s also a rotating glass display case with their more creative fare. A glimpse at this case is worth the visit alone. I ordered The Loop, covered in Fruit Loops.

Plenty of seasonally-themed donuts, too.

Many of these donuts feature funky designs or kooky add-ons like cereal, coconut, sprinkles, marshmallows, cookies, or candy.

Their signature Voodoo Doll: a man stabbed with a pretzel stick, filled with jelly.

There’s plenty of dirty bumper stickers and signs plastered around the space. Thank goodness our kids can’t read yet…

Read through their menu for some of the more scandalous names, too.

FOOD: Our group loaded some of their signature pink boxes with a variety and took them home. All in all: very good donuts. A couple of the toppings were a little dried out, but they certainly all tasted good.

The specialty donuts are big, so they’re great for sharing.

The famous Bacon Maple Bar. A great blend of flavors. Sweet and salty all in one. Our sample was a little dry, but I liked it. Even more so if it was filled with cream.

Another signature, the Old Dirty Bastard, covered with peanut butter and crumbled Oreo cookies. A ridiculous wallop of sugar. My favorite of the mix.

SERVICE: Don’t expect any smiles from the Voodoo crew. They’ll take your money and serve you great donuts, but don’t expect them to like it. If being coddled by a customer service representative is your thing, don’t come here. If you don’t care, you’ll be fine.

OVERALL: Later in our visit to Portland, after a fancy Peruvian diner at Andina, we stopped by Voodoo Doughnut for a second dessert. It’s a fun, guilty pleasure. While Voodoo isn’t the most magnificent donut shop I’ve ever visited, there really is something to all the hype. The whole experience is fun, and you can’t argue with a big box of crazy donuts. If you’re ever in Portland, go hang out downtown and pick some up.

FUN NOTE: If you love Voodoo Doughnuts that much, why don’t you get married there? You can.

OTHER LINKS:
-> Gimme Doughnut, short documentary on Voodoo Doughnut

The Tin Shed Garden Cafe | Portland, OR

The Tin Shed Garden Cafe
1438 NE Alberta St. (map it!)
Portland, OR 97211
(503) 288-6966
Open daily, 7:00 am – 10:00 pm (bfast served till 3)
Accepts cash and credit/debit
Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free? Y/Y/N

Date of Visit: Sunday, October 24, 2010 at 10:00 a.m.

IMPRESSIONS: My wife and I have some close friends in Portland, Oregon, and take any opportunity we can afford to go visit them. It’s a super added bonus that Portland – like Columbus – is a great breakfast town, and it had two breakfast joints featured in Rick Sebak’s documentary Breakfast Special. The Tin Shed was his first stop in PDX, led there by Paul Gerald, author of Breakfast in Bridgetown.

You can find the Tin Shed on Alberta Street, a charming stretch of shops and restaurants that, I am told, has been improving in quality over the years. If you’re going to visit The Tin Shed, get familiar with this sight: the outside. Chances are you’re going to wait. A long line always speaks to the quality and popularity of the place, but a.) be prepared and don’t let the long wait make you grumpy, and b.) be careful that your expectations aren’t raised too high. Breakfast joints with long waits – whether because they are local favorites, or because they’ve been featured on national television, or both – can raise expectations unrealistically and lead to disappointed customers. With a group of six (4 adults + 2 kids), on a Sunday mid-morning, we waited about 30-40 minutes.

But the folks at Tin Shed know you might have a long wait (and there’s a good chance you’ll wait in the rain), so they’ve got a coffee stand set up out front. Coffee, tea, water: all there for you.

ATMOSPHERE: As if you couldn’t tell already, you can expect a busy atmosphere at Tin Shed. The sidewalks will be lined with hopeful customers. To join their ranks, you need to sign in when you arrive. (Fun note: if you’re sitting outside, you can bring your dog.) The seating is grouped in two areas. The first is the small inside, with about five tables and a few stools overlooking a small bar. It’s crowded, tight, and noisy. The decor is an eclectic mix of funky lighting and colorful art.

The second seating area is mostly outdoors. There you’ll find the more-charming covered patio, with a fireplace, big fans, heat lamps, and rustic tables. On a slightly chilly, damp October morning, there was something enticing about the patio. It seemed so cozy, despite the outdoor location, that I was almost disappointed we were seated inside.

FOOD: Tin Shed has the hip menu to match its layout and decor. Each section is a different variety of “goodness.” Stacked Goodness (potato pancakes). Sample Goodness (the big platters). Sweet Goodness (porridge, French toast). You get the idea. Pictured here is the Spike Lee, from their Specialty Goodness. Most of the items in this list are named after movie stars. The Spike Lee is a burrito filled with scrambled eggs, veggies, and black beans. It’s spiked with jalapenos and chipotle. Our friends let us try a bite: very nice.

Our friends also chose the Everything Nice. This is one of two options in the Sample Goodness category. Its counterpart is the Everything Naughty, loaded with all the bad but delicious stuff. The Everything Nice, however, features their signature potato cake, fruit, French toast, and a choice of meat. Our friends opted for the pork sausage. I love how it’s split and grilled.

A point for their kid-friendliness: a cheap but good-tasting children’s menu. We ordered our son the Freddy: a kid-sized portion of the French toast.

My wife and I split the Roll Over. This comes out of the Stacked Goodness, in which everything is based on the potato cakes and named for canine commands. I was drawn to this because I wanted to try the potato cakes, plus you could get it with rosemary mushroom gravy. Um, yes. The stack is rounded out with a sausage and egg scramble, and it was simply delicious. The gravy really made the dish. I keep craving it, well after our trip.

I chatted with one of the managers for a bit, connecting over the fact that we were both featured in Breakfast Special. As a little perk, they gave us a couple Bloody Marys to try. I’m not usually one for alcohol with my breakfast, but these were most certainly worth a try. This is the Cajun Bloody Mary, which had a big dash of spice around the lip of the glass. Garnished with lime, onions, celery, peppers, and olives.

We also tried the regular Bloody Mary, which was very smoky. Made with their own bacon-infused vodka.

SERVICE: We were treated very well at the Tin Shed. You could probably be soured by a long wait, but I think we were prepared. Our server (forget her name, dangit) was super nice and attentive. Despite the crazy crowd, the Tin Shed is accommodating to children. Our party included two youngins, and our server was prepared with high chairs, crayons, coloring books, and fun cups. This is a quick way to win parents’ hearts.

OVERALL: Tin Shed has a fun location, a really great vibe, and creative food. Again, the long wait could easily put you off or build your expectations too much (being featured nationally doesn’t help), but we found it to be a great community experience. Even the wait was fun with our friends there, and once in the restaurant, we felt welcomed and well cared-for. Their menu features a lot of creative options, and while it wasn’t my favorite in Portland, a couple items stand out, especially those potato cakes and that rosemary mushroom gravy.

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